V. I 



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V 



Manual Training 



FOR THE 



Rural Schools 



LOUIS M.ROEHL 



Manual Training for the Rural Schools 

A Group of Farm and Farm Home 
Woodworking T^rohlems 



•^ c- 



Louis M. Roehl 



Teacher and Supervisor of Farm Shop W^ork, 

New York State College of Agriculture at 

Cornell University; Ithaca, N. Y. 




BRUCE- MILWAUKEE 



The Bruce Publishing Company 



MILWAUKEE, WIS. 




1 5-1* 



Copyright, 1916, 1922 

The Bruce Publishing Company 

Printed in the United States 

of America 



OCT 13 '22 



C1A686254 



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CONTENTS 

Page 

Preface 2 

Contents 3 

Woodworking Equipment for Country Schools . 4 

Pictures of Tools 5 

Drawings of Workbench 6 

Directions for Workbench 7 

Directions for Eeducing Stock to Dimensions 8-9 

Bread Board .10-11 

Bench Hook 12-13 

Feeding Trough for Chicks 14-15 

Household Appliances 16-17 

Folding Bench 18-19 

Nail and Staple Box . 20-21 

Bird Houses 22-23 

Window Screen . . . ; .24-25 

Tool Sharpening 26 

Saw Filing . 27 

Milking Stool . 28-29 

Farm Tool Box .30-31 

Berry Box Holder .♦ 32-33 

Saw Horse ........ .34-35 

Poultry Watering Stand .36-37 

Chicken Brooder Coop and Run 38-39 

Ironing Board 40-41 

Wagon Jack • . 42-43 

Belt Lacing 44-45 



WOODWORKING EQUIPMENT FOR 
COUNTRY SCHOOLS 

1— 22-inch Hand Rip Saw 8 Point. ' 

1— H22-inch Hand Cross Cut Saw 8 Point. \ 

1 — Claw Hammer, 12 oz. Straight Claw, Plain Face. , -^ : 

1 — Jack Plane, 14-inch with 2-inch Cutter. 

1 — Try Square, 8 inch. 

1— T bevel, 8 inch. ,-. . 

1 — Marking Gauge, No. 0. 

1— Divider, 8 inch. 

1 — rCarpenter's Mallet, 2% x 3% inches. 

1 — 2-foot Four Fold Rule, Brass Bound. 

1 — y4^-mch. Socket Firmer Chisel. 

1 — ^-inch Socket Firmer Chisel. . ^ij 

1 — %Tinch Socket Firmer Chisel. , ; 

2 — Bench Stops. 

1 — 8-inch Bench Brush. .,/ 

1— Steel Rafter Framing Square. 

1 — Bench Hook. ; > 

1-^6-inch Screw Driver. 

1 — 4-inch Screw Driver. 

1 — Ratchet Brace, 8-inch Sweep. 

1— 10-inch Flat Bastard Mill File, with Handle. 

1 — 6-inch Slim Taper Triangular File, with Handle. 

1 — ^8-inch Drawing Knife. 

1— Nail Set, 3-32 inch. 

1 — Rose Countersink. 

1 — Saw Set. 

1 — 6-inch Slip-Joint Combination Plier. v 

1— Putty Knife. 

1 — Set of Auger Bits, i/4 to 1 inch. 

1 — Coping Saw, Nickel Plated, Wire Frame with Three Dozen Bladef-% 

Bit Stock Drills with Square Shank, for Wood or Metal, 3 each, 

3-32, i/g, 5-32, 3-16 inch. 
1 — 2 X 8 inch Carborundum Combination Sharpening Stone. 
1 — 10-inch Hack Saw. 



INTRODUCTION 



A shop containing a workbench and tools on every farm is 
necessary not only to keep the farm equipment in order but as a place 
and means for the boys to tinker at such work as suits their fancy. 

A workbench and a kit of tools are desirable equipment for the 
schools that the older boys may receive training to do construction 
and repair work and satisfy their desire to work with tools. 

The workbench herein suggested is suited to do the kind of 
work indicated by the appliances on the following pages. It is 
suggested that the teachers and school boards who desire to have this 
work in their schools do not depend on the boys to construct the 
benches for the school but rather hire a carpenter to do the work. 
After the boys have done considerable of the work constructing the 
appliances it may be desirable to have them build benches for their 
own use at home. 

^'Manual Training for the Eural Schools'^ is a collection of 
usable appliances especially adapted to the needs of rural people. 
The material required is such as may be obtained at the local lumber 
yards and hardware stores. 

Effort has been made to arrange the problems in the order of 
difficulty of construction, placing the ones w^hich are easier of con- 
struction at the beginning. 

The first and most important lesson in woodwork is to learn how 
to reduce a piece of wood to the three given dimensions of length, 
width and thickness and it is suggested for those beginning the work 
that they follow closely the direction for "Eeducing Stock to Dimen- 
sions," observing closely the illustrations of the tool operations 
referred to. 



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MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



WORKBENCH 

The material required for the workbench is as follows 
Lumber : 



Pieces 
4 
2 
W 2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 

Hardware ; 



Dimensions 
l%"x5%'^x2'-7' 
I%"x5%"xl8" 
y8"x4"xl8" 
%"x4"x3'-3y2' 
y8"x4"xl2%" 
%'x7i/4"x4'-6' 
%"xl0"x4'-6" 

y8"x2y2"xi8" 
yg^xys^'xis" 

y8"x6"xl8" 
y8"x6'xl8%" 

y8"x5"xl7" 

y2"xy2"xi6i^" 

y2"x9"xl6i/4" 

l%"xl0'x4'-6" 

y8"xl0"x4'-6" 



Use 
Legs 
Sills 

End braces 
Long braces 
Cross braces 
Shelf 
Aprons 

Drawer guides 
Drawer guides 
Drawer front 
Drawer sides 
Drawer back 
Drawer bottom rests 
Drawer bottom 
Top plank 
Top board 



8 Carriage bolts, %"x6", with washers to hold sills to legs. 

4 Carriage bolts, %"x7", with washers to hold top plank to sills. 

doz. 1%" flat head wood screws. 

doz. 6d common nails. 

doz. 3d common nails for drawer guide, floor and floor rest of drawer. 

doz. 8d finishing nails for assemblying drawer. 

Iron screw vise. 



Directions. 



1. Measure, cut and plane all pieces to the dimensions called for in the bill 
of material. 

2. By use of the hand saws cut a l%"x5%" shoulder at the upper end of each 
leg as shown in the detail drawing; then cut gains V^" deep by 4" wide at 6" from 
the bottom ends of the legs on the same edges as the shoulders for the braces; 

then fasten the braces with screws and bolt the sills to the legs. 

3. Fasten the long braces to the legs, using five 6d common nails at each 
end of each brace. In nailing the braces in place be sure and use the steel square 
and make the legs stand at right angle to the braces. 

4. Fasten the cross braces in place, using two 6d common nails at each end 
of each brace, then nail the shelf in place. 

5. Fasten the aprons to the legs using six screws for each apron. 

6. Cut the opening in the front apron for the drawer 6"xl8", then fasten the 
drawer guides in place, using two screws at each end of each guide, 

7. The drawer front is cut as shown in detail drawing A; the drawer back 
is set into the drawer sides as at B; the bottom rests on the ^/^"xi/^" cleat which 
is nailed to the inside of the sides at bottom as in the construction of the drawer 
guides. 

8. Cut a hand hold in the drawer front l"x4", using the 1" auger and a chisel. 

9. The top board is held to the sills with screws. The top plank is fastened 
to the sills with the %"x7" carriage bolts. %" holes are bored 1" deep in the top 
plank so as to allow the heads of the bolts to drop below the surface. These holes 
are plugged when the bolts are in place. The top plank is allowed to project over 
the edge of the front apron ^/4" so as to serve better as a vise jaw. 

10. Vises vary so in design and dimensions that the workman needs to study 
the way of fastening the vise at hand. 



10 MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 

DIRECTIONS FOR REDUCING STOCK TO DIMENSIONS 



1 — Plane one side smooth and mark 
"I." Call this side the working 
face. Fig. 1. 




Fig. 1. Holding Wood Between Bench Pegs 
and Planing Surface. 




2 — Plane one adjoining edge at right angles 
to surface "I" and mark "II." Call this 
edge the working edge. Fig. 2. 



Fig. 2. Edge Planing. 



-Draw a line across surface "I" near one 
end at r.ght angles to surface "II," and 
remove the end stock to line with saw or 
plane. Mark end surface "III." Call 
this end the working end. Fig. 3, 
Fig. 4. 




Fig. 3. Squaring the End with Try 
Square and Pencil. 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



11 



-Measure off the length of the 
required piece on surface 
"I" from the end surface 
"III," and reduce stock to 
length with saw or plane. 
Fig. 4. 




Fig. 4. Sawing: Cross Grain on Bench Hook 
with Back or Handy Saw. 




4a — The end may be trimmed with a block 
plane as shown. Fig. 4a. 



Fisr. 4a. 



End Planing with a Block 
Plane. 



5 — Measure off the width of the required 
piece on surface "I" from edge "H" 
and remove stock to line with plane. 

C — With marking gauge set at the thick- 
ness of the required piece, measure 
off the thickness of the required stock 
from surface "I" and remove stock 
to line with plane. Fig. 5. 





Fig:. 5. The Marking Gauge in Use, 



-In reducing a piece of wood to dimen- 
sions the try square should be used con- 
stantly, to obtain right angles with the 
adjoining surfaces. The stock should be 
removed to the line but the line should 
never be cut away. Fig. 6. 



Fig. 6. Testing to See if End is Square 
with the Edge. 




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12 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



13 



BREAD BOARD 

Material Required 

Lumber: 1 piece basswood, poplar 
or white pine iix5%xll% 
inches. 

Tools 

Sharp lead pencil, rule, try square, 
jack plane, handy saw, brace, 
% inch b.t, % inch chisel, mark- 
ing gauge, dividers. 
Stock Bill 

Pieces. Finished Dimensions. 

1. %x5V^xll inches. 





Fig. 8. Chiseling AA-ith the Grain. 



-Draw a line across edge and 
end at each corner 1 inch from 
the corner so that the proper 
amount of stock may be re- 
moved. 

-Remove stock at corner with % 
inch chisel, cutting with the 
grain. Fig. 8. 



Fig. 7. Swinging an Arc with a Compass. 



Directions 

1 — Reduce stock to finished dimen- 
sions following the above direc- 
tions. 

2~To lay out round corners locate 
points at each corner on both sides 
1 inch from end and 1 inch from 
edge, and w.th dividers set at a 1- 
inch radius swing an arc across the 
corner to edge and end. Fig. 7. 




Fig. 9. Boring a Hole. 




5 — Locate a point % inch from one 
end on a center line drawn length- 
wise of the stock and bore hole 
with % inch bit. Bore from one 
side until the point of the bit 
comes through, then turn the board 
and finish from the other side. 
This prevents splitting of the wood 
around the hole. Fig. 9, Fig. 10. 



Fig. 10. Feeling for the Point of the Bit. 






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MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



15 



BENCH HOOK 

Material Required 

Lumber: 1 piece white or yellow 
pine, tIx5%x10% inches. 
1 piece white or yellow 
pine, tIxI 78x11 inches. 
(Cypress or Oregon p.ne 
may be substituted for 
white or yellow pine.) 

Hardware: 6 flat head bright wood 
screws 1% inch. No. 8. 




Fig. 12. Setting a Plane. 

Directions 

1 — Reduce all pieces to finished dimen- 
sions. 

2 — Draw a center line lengthwise of 
big piece. 

3 — Locate a point on line just draAvn 
2^4 inches from one end and bore % 
inch hole. 

4 — Locate points on each of the small 
pieces for screws. 

5 — Bore holes for screws with 5^ inch 
twist bit and countersink the holes. 

6 — Clamp all pieces accurately in po- 
sition in vise and assemble with 
screws. If white pine or other soft 
wood is used the screws may be 
forced into the large piece without 
^drilling a hole, but if yellow pine or 
other hardwood is used a hole should 
be made for starting the screw with 
a smaller bit than that used for the 
shank of the screw. 
The screw driver should be held 
straight and pressed firmly so as 
not to mar the slot in the screw. 
The hole for the head of the screw 
should be countersunk so that the 
head is slightly below the surface of 
the wood. 




Fig. 11. Position to Hold Sand Paper and 
Sand Paper Block. 



Tcols 

Sharp lead pencil, rule, try square, jack 
plane, handy saw, brace, % inch bit, No. 
ih inch twist drill, countersink, screw 
driver. 

Stock Bill 

Pieces Finished Dimensions 

1 %x5V2xlO in. 

1 %xl%x 51/2 in. 

1 %xl%x 41/2 in. 




Fig. 13. Countersinking a Hole. 




16 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 17 

FEEDING TROUGH FOR CHICKS 

A poultry feeding device should be designed so that it is easy to fill, easy to 
clean and minimizes the tendency of the chicks to waste feed. The trough shown 
here is cleaned by merely lifting the cover from the box and using a hose or a pail 
of water and a broom. 

The cover is made of pieces of wood %"x%" for the sides and %xl" for the 
ends. This makes the inside edges of the cover project over the inside edges of 
the sides and ends of the box. This slight projection catches the feed which the 
chicks tend to flip out and causes it to drop back in. 

The wires prevent the birds from getting on the feed and scratching. Fol- 
lowing is a bill of material: , 

Pieces Dimensions Use 

1 %"x6"x22V2" Bottom 

2 y2"x3"x24" Sides 
2 %"x3'x6" Ends 

2 %"x%"x24" Sides of cover 

2 %"xl"x5y2" Ends of cover 

3 doz. 4d finishing nails for assembling the box. 

12 8d finishing nails for assembling the top and holding the cover in place 

28 poultry netting staples. 

7 ft. of heavy wire (hay wire will do if none heavier is at hand). ^^ 

Small quantity of paint. 

Directions for Construction 

1. Reduce all pieces to the dimensions called for in the bill of material. 

2. Fasten the ends to the bottom of the trough by using four 4d finishin;^ 
nails at each end. 

3. Fasten the sides of the trough to the bottom by using 4d finishing nails 
spaced as shown in the drawing. 

4. Drive four 8d finishing nails part way into the top edge of the sides of 
the trough at points 1%" from the ends. Allow the heads of the nails to project 
about one inch. ^ 

5. Nail the sides of the top to the ends by using two 8d finishing nails at 
each joint. 

6. Place the wire on the cover as shown in the drawing of the cover, spacing 
the wires 1%" apart. The poultry netting staples are used to hold the wire. 

7. Bore %" holes through the side pieces of the cover at points 1%" from 
the ends. The cover may then be placed on and off as desired for fillin t ftnd 
cleaning the trough. 

8. Set the nails slightly with the nail set. 

Note: If the chicks are too small to reach the feed, an inch board or a piece 
of two by four may be placed alongside the trough for the first few days. 







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MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 19 

STAND FOR HOT DISHES 

The staiid for hot dishes may be constructed of any soft wood. The sills 
are %"xl"x9". The slats are %"xl"x9 " and are fastened to the sills by driving 
two 4d finishing nails through the slats and into the sills from the top. The 
nails are set with the nail set so as not to catch the cloth while cleaning. 

CLOTHES LINE REEL 

After the two main pieces of the reel are reduced to the size called for iix 
the drawing, all corners are chamfered %" as shown in the detail drawing.. 
The inside edges of the ends are then chamfered %" back on the side and to- 
a 1/4" point. Pieces are cut from an old broom handle 8I/2" long and used for 
handles. They are placed 2%" from the ends. The handles are held in place 
with nails driven into the edges of the main pieces. 3d nails are suitable. A 
4d common nail driven part way in on the inside of one of the main pieces 
is a means of fastening the end when starting to wind up the line. 

PLATFORM FOR MOP PAIL 

The platform for a mop pail is a labor saving device for the kitchen. The 
phitt'orm with a pail on it may be pushed from place to place on the floor 
without being lifted each time. It consists vi a board %" thick and 10" square, 
held straight by two 3^"xli4"xl0" wooden straps nailed below at each end. 
Two %"x2"x2" blocks are sawed diagonally as shown in the detail drawing, 
making four triangular blocks, one being nailed to each corner at the top. This 
prevents the pail from slipping off the platform when pushed or pulled from 
place to place on the floor. Four plate casters are fastened to the bottom of 
the platform at the corners. A l"x4i/^" hand hold is made in the platform, 
as shown, by use of the inch bit and the wood chiseL A 14" hole is bored 
through the platform as show^n to hang it up on a nail when not in use. 

FRUIT CAN RACK 

The fruit can rack is a handy device for holding the fruit cans in an up- 
right position in an ordinary wash boiler so as not to touch one another while 
canning. %"x%" strips of wood are used and are held together with 4d finish- 
ing nails. The nails are driven through from the top and clinched. This rack 
as dimensioned is for pint cans and a wash boiler 12"x22^". Before starting 
the construction, the maker should measure the boiler that is to be used and the 
cans that are to be filled. Then cut the pieces to length and space them to 
accommodate the sizes of cans at hand. It may be noted that this rack as 
dimensioned will hold in place twelve pint cans. 



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20 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



21 



Lumber: 



FOLDING BENCH - 

Material Required 

1 piece cypress or white pine ilx8 inches x 9 ft. 6 inches. 



1 piece cypress or white pine ^/2xli/4 inches x 7 feet. 

(Oregon pine or Southern pine may be substituted for cypress or white 

pine.) 

Hardware: 30 flat head bright wood screws 1% inches, No. 10. 
16 flat head bright wood screws 1 inch, No. 7. 
4 carriage bolts and washers %x2 inches. 



Tools 

Sharp lead pencil, rule, try square, jack plane, handy saw, brace, % inch bit, t\ inch 
and Vs inch twist drills, countersink, % inch chisel, rip saw, screw driver, 
pliers, dividers. 



Pieces 

2 
2 
2 

4 
2 
2 
4 



Stock Bill 






Finished Dimensions 




Use 


%x2V2X 4 feet 


inches 


Sides 


%x2y2X 3 feet 10 Vs 


inches 


Platform 


%x2 1/2x14 1/2 inches 




Ends 


%x2 x21 inches 




Legs 


%x2 xl6 inches 




End cross piece 


%x %xl4:V2 inches 




Lower cross piece 


1/^x1 x21 inches 




End braces 



Directions. 

1 — Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions. 

2 — Fasten ends to four long pieces by using two 1% inch No. 10 screws at each 
joint. Bore holes for screws with 1^5 inch twist bit and countersink holes. 

3 — Fasten end lower cross piece by placing five screws as shown in the drawing. 

4 — Locate points for bolts on side pieces IVs inches from top edge and 3% inches 

from end and bore hole with % inch bit. 
5 — Bore % inch' holes in legs at end for bolts. - ._ ^ 

6 — Cut notch 1/4 inch deep and % inch wide in upper edge of legs 2 inches from end 

and fasten cross piece in place w.th one 1% inch screw at each joint. 

7 — Lay out cross braces, making half lap joint at center and fas_ten with two Lindh 
No. 7 screws at each joint, and one % inch screw at half lap joint. 

8 — Fasten legs to top with bolts. 




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MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



23 



NAIL AND STAPLE BOX 

Material Required 

Lumber: 1 piece white pine or basswood 111x8^/4x111/^ inches. 

1 piece white pine or basswood iixSi/^xll^/^ inches. 

1 piece white pine or basswood 1/^x4 inches by 4 feet 2 inches. 

(Redwood, poplar or cypress may be substituted for white pine or 

basswood.) 
Hardware: 5 flat head bright wood screws 1^^ inches, No. 8. 

3 dozen 4d finishing nails. 

Toe Is 

Sharp lead pencil, rule, try square, jack plane, handy saw, brace and 3^2 inch twist 
drill, countersink, 1 inch bit, screw driver, hammer, % inch chisel. 




Fig. 14. Holding the Plane at an Angle to Cut a Chamfer. 



Pieces 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 







Stock Bill 


Finished Dimensions 


%x8 


xll 


inches 


%x5V4 


txll 


inches 


V2x4 


xl2 


inches 


V2x4 


X 8 


inches 


¥2x31,4 


tx 3% 


inches 
Directicns 



Use 
Bottom 

Partition and handle 
Sides 
Ends 
Cross partitions 



1 — Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions. 

2 — To lay out opening for hand draw a line lengthwise of stock IV2 inches from 
upper edge, also draw a center line crosswise of stock. Measurements should be 
made on line running lengthwise of stock from center line. Locate points on 
line 11/^ inches from center line and bore 1 inch holes. Remove as much as 
possible of the remaining stock with 1 inch bit and trim opening with % inch 
chisel. 

3 — In making partition and handle first reduce piece to %x5i/4xll inches. To lay 
out the slant draw two lines across upper edge SV2 inches from ends and a line 
across each end 2 inches from upper edge. Connect lines just drawn with lines 
on both sides. 

4 — Lay out Vs inch chamfer on upper edge and both ends of opening with pencil 
and remove stock with chisel. 

^ — Remove stock for slant with saw and trim to line with plane. 

) — Lay out Vs inch chamfer on corners of upper edge and remove stock with plane. 

7 — Assemble box by placing nails and screws as shown in drawing. 




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MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 25 

BIRD HOUSES 

The materials best suited for bird houses are weathered boards, slabs of 
wood with the bark adhering, roofing paper, plant pots and hollow logs, because 
they most nearly resemble the natural nesting places of birds. If new lumber 
is used, it need be painted to preserve it and may then be covered with slabs 
of bark to make a rustic appearance. 

The inside measurements of a box should be at least 4"x4"x6". A medium 
sized box will be acceptable to the greatest variety of birds. 

Since all birds, except the martins, wish to be out of sight while incubating 
the opening in the house should be placed above the center. If the house is 
intended for whatever bird may choose to live in it a li^" opening is preferable. 
If the house is built for a particular bird the following sizes of openings as 
suggested by H. K. Job of the Audubon Society are recommended: 

1%" — House wren, Bewick's wren, Carolina wren, chickadee. 
11/4" — White-breasted nuthatch, tufted titmouse. 

1%" to 1%" — Bluebird, downy woodpecker, crested flycatcher, tree swallow, 
violet-green swallow. 

1%" to 2" — Eed-headed and hairy woodpecker. 
2%" — Flicker, saw-whet owl, purple martin. 
3" — Screech owl, sparrow hawk. 
414"— Barn owl, wood duck. 

A good way to place the house is on a wooden or iron pole, five to twelve 
feet high. An iron pole has the advantage of preventing cats or squirrels from 
bothering the birds. A telegraph pole or the top of a high fence post or the 
top of a dead tree trunk are also good places for the house. 

The wren house in Fig. 1 may be accurately built to the dimensions specified 
in the drawing and thus be a good construction problem as well as a good bird 
house. Two coats of an outside paint will act as a preservative for the wood 
and prevent the boards from warping and the joints from opening. Slabs of 
bark nailed over the outside of the house gives it an appearance more like the 
native haunts of the birds. 

The house in Fig. 2 is built of roofing paper which is fastened to a wooden 
bottom or post. Patterns are laid out for the box and the roof as at A and B. 
The building paper is then cut to the patterns and the roof is fastened to the 
box while flat on the workbench. Holes are punched through the roofing paper 
and the parts held together with split rivets. The roof folds up in a cone shape 
and the joint is held with rivets. 

Fig. 3 shows a piece of the trunk of a hollow tree with a round piece of 
board in the bottom the size of the hole. A piece of weathered board %''x2"x20" 
is fastened to the house at the back as a means for fastening up the house. 
The top of the trunk is cut at a slant. A weathered board slightly wider and 
longer than the top of the house is fastened to the back board with a hinge. 
This makes a good roof. A hook is provided to hold the roof down at the front. 

Pig. 4 shows a plant pot fastened to a weathered board. The board may 
be fastened to a tree or the side of a building. The hole in the bottom of the 
pot needs to be enlarged to at least 13-16" if intended for wrens or to the 
dimensions in the table if intended for other birds. 




26 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



27 



WINDOW SCREEN 

Material Required for Each Window 

Lumber: I piece white pine or cypress l%x2i/^ inches by width of window for 
bottom rail. 

1 piece white pine l%x2 inches by width of window plus twice the length 
of window for top rails and stiles. 

1 piece white pine l%xl inch by width of window for middle rail. 
Enough screen moulding to cover edges of screen and middle rail. 



Hardware: Twenty lOd casing nails, 
if nailed joint is used; I package 
No. 16 brads if mortise and tenon 
joint is used and for nailing mould- 
ing, package of carpet tacks for 
screen; wire fly screen; paint. 

The finished dimensions are not 
given here as they must be obtained 
by measuring the window where the 
screen is to fit. 

The mortise and tenon joint is the 
stronger and better way of joining the 
screen at the comers, yet a nailed 
joint holds the members firmly in 





Fig. 15. Position of Chisel and Mallet for 
Mortishic. 



place if the nails are well placed at an 
angle as shown in the drawing. The 
screen need lap only far enough on 
the sides and ends to be securely 
n^.iled. It should not project outside 
of the moulding which is placed on 
the inside edge of the sides and ends 
and across the middle rail. 

The painting should be done care- 
ful Iv so as to prevent moisture from 
getting into the joints. 



Fig. 16. Method for Holding Chisel in Mortising. 



28 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



TOOL SHARPENING 

There are three distinct operations in sharpening- a plane bit or chisel; first, 
grinding-, Fig. 17 ;r second, whetting the beveled side, Fig\ 18; third, removing the 
wire edge from the plain side. Fig. 19. 

In grinding a plane iron loosen the cap screw with a screw driver and set the 
lever cap back on the plane iron so that it will be out of the way when removing 
the wire edge from the flat side. 



The plane iron or cutter 
should be held on the grinder so 
that the edge will be a perfect 
right angle with the side. It 
should be held firmly in one 
position so that only one bevel 
will be formed. In grinding, the 
tool should be moved from side 
to side on the grinder so as to 
prevent wearing the stone un- 
evenly. 




Fig-. 17. Grinding a Chisel. 



In whetting the beveled side of 
the chisel or plane iron it should be 
held firmly in both hands as in- 
dicated in Fig. 18 and g'iven three 
or four forward strokes, pressing 
the iron firmly on to the stone. 
Do not move the wrists for this 
motion. The movement should 
occur at the elbow and by the 
swaying of the body forward and 
back. 




Fig-. IS. Whetting the Beveled Side of a Chisel. 




Fig. 



19. Removing the Wire Edge from the 
Plain Side of a Chisel. 



To remove the wire edge, lay the 
flat side of chisel or plane iron, flat 
on the oil stone as shown in Fig. 19 
and move it back and forth three or 
four strokes. Under no circum- 
stances should the end of the iron 
be raised or lowered so. that it 
won't lie flat on the stone. 

Until one becomes thQroughly 
familiar A with tool sharpening, the 
whettiyig of both, beveled and/plain 
sides may need?j?to: be done more 
than once to insure a good cutting 
tool. 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



29 




SAW FILING 

The first operation in sharpening a saw is that of jointing the saw, Fig. 20. 
The purpose of this is to bring all teeth to an even length. This is done by draw- 
ing a flat file across the teeth of the saw. One or two strokes is usually sufficient. 
The file must be held perfectly square; this may be facilitated by use of a block 
called a saw jointer, as shown in Fig. 20. 

The second opera- 
tion in saw sharpen- 
ing is that of setting 
the saw. This con- 
sists of bending the 
teeth outward, one 
on one side, the next 
on the other and so 
on till all the teeth 
are bent. The set 
should not extend 
more than half the 
length of the tooth. 
For ordinary work 
the teeth should be 
set about one-third 
the thickness of the 
blade. For dry lum- 
ber the saw will re- 
quire less set than 
for green or wet 
lumber. 

The third operation is that of filing the saw. In filing a cross-cut saw the 
point of the file should point toward the point of the saw at an angle of about 60 
degrees. In filing a rip saw the file is held straight across the saw. File every 
tooth to a point, one-half of the filing being done from each side, being careful to 

stop filing a tooth when it 
has been brought to a point. 
File the entire length of the 
saw from one side, then re- 
verse the saw and file from 
the other side. The front 
edge of each tooth projecting 
away from the filer and the 
back edge of the tooth next 
ahead, should be filed with 
the same stroke. Only for- 
ward strokes of the file 
should be used. 

The fourth operation con- 
sists of placing the saw flat 
on a smooth surface, as the 
top of a bench, and running a 
flat oil stone over the teeth 
so as to remove the burr 
from the teeth caused by fil- 
Fig. 21. Filing a Saw. • ing. 



Fig. 20. Jointing a Saw 





30 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 31 

MILKING STOOL 

This milking stool is designed so as to have three small resting points on 
the floor. This is preferable to broad surfaces as the stool is more apt to set 
evenly on the stable floor where bedding often interferes. The bill of material 
for the stool is as follows : 

Pieces Dimensions Use 

2 y8'x7i/2"xl0" Sides 

1 y8"x9" xlO" Top 

1 7/8'x634"xl9i4" Platform 

1 . 78"x2y2"x63/4" Brace 

1 piece of broom handle 4" long. 
13 2" No. 10 or 12 flat head wood screws. 
8 4d common or finishing nails. 
A small quantity of paint. 

Directions 

1. Eeduce all pieces to the dimensions called for in the bill of material. 

2. Draw a line across one end of each side piece, 1" from the back edge. 
This end is to be the lower end. 

3. Draw a line across the front edge of each side piece 5%" from the 
upper end. 

4. Connect the lines across the edges with the lines across the ends by 
drawing lines across the sides. 

5. Eemove the stock to the lines just drawn with the saw and plane. 

6. Fasten the brace to the bottom side of the platform at the front end, 
driving, the nails through the brace and into the platform. 

7. Bore a hole of the size of the broom handle through the brace at center 
and half way through the platform for the piece of broom handle to fit into. 

8. The piece of broom handle is held in place with one of the screws. A 
hole is bored for the screw and the hole countersunk so that the head of the 
screw will fit down even with the surface of the platform. 

9. Make the opening in the top for the hand-hold. This is done by draw- 
ing a line parallel to the front edge of the top at 1%" froni the edge and on 
the line locating points 1^" from the center. Bore 1" holes at the points just 
located and also remove as much as possible of the remainder of the stock 
between the holes with the same bit. Then smooth the hole w^ith the %" or 1" 
chisel. 

10. It should be noted that the top projects over the sides %" and that it 
is fastened with three 2" No. 10 or No. 12 wood screws at each side. 

11. The platform is fastened to the sides so that its lower edge will be 
even with the slant on the sides at their front edges and then held in place with 
three 2" No. 10 or No. 12 wood screws at each side. 

12. The stool is finished by applying two coats of paint. 




32 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 33 

FARM TOOL BOX 

A\hile repairing fences and overhauling machinery and doing other similar 
work on farms it is often desired to carry tools from the shop to the place 
where the work is to be done. The farm tool box is a handy device for carry- 
ing a few of the small tools ordinarily used. The bill of material for the box 
is as follows : 

Pieces Dimensions Use 

1 %"x9" xl5" Bottom 

2 y2"x3i/2"xl6" Sides 
2 y2'x3i/2'x 9" Ends 

2 i/2'x4i/4"x 9" Partitions 

1 piece of broom handle 4" long. 
40 4d finishing nails. 

2 1%" No. 8 or No. 9 flat head wood screws. 

Directions fcr Construction 

1. Reduce all pieces to the dimensions called for in the bill of material. 

2. Fasten the end pieces to the floor by using five 4d finishing nails at 
each end. 

3. Fasten the sides to the floor and end pieces by using eight nails at 
each side at the bottom and three at each end. 

4. Draw a line across each end of each partition at a point 1%" from 
the upper edge. 

5. Draw two lines across the upper -edge of each partition 1" from the 
center or 3%" from each end. 

6. Connect the lines across the edges with the lines across the sides by 
drawing lines on each side of each board. 

7. Remove the wood to the lines Avith the rip saw and plane. 

8. On a center line drawn across the sides of the partitions, locate points 
1^" from the top edge and at these points bore holes with the 5-32" drill for 
the screws. 

9. Countersink the holes so that the heads of the screws will fit in flush. 

10. Bore holes in the ends of the handle about 1/2" deep using the i/g" drill. 

11. Fasten the handle in place before placing the partitions in the box. 
If the partitions were first placed in position in the box the pressure applied 
to the screws would be likely to split the boards. 

12. Nail the partitions in place using three 4d finishing nails at each 
end of each board. 

13. Finish the box by applying two coats of paint. Allow the first coat 
to dry at least Iavo days before applying the second coat. 




34 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 35 



BERRY BOX HOLDER 

The berry box holder is a handy device for carrying four quart berry boxes. 
Lumber from dry goods boxes is suitable for the holder. After having reduced 
all the pieces to the dimensions called for in the drawing proceed as follows : 

Place the side A on the bench as shown in Fig. 2 with a post in position 
as shown. Drive one nail through the post and far enough into the side A to 
hold it in place but not far enough to go into the top of the bench, then place 
the try square as s-hown so as to make the post fit at right angle to the side 
and drive the second nail. The piece A is then held so that the end projects 
slightly over the edge of the bench and the nails are driven through. The 
other post is fastened in the same way. To clinch the nails the work is turned 
over with the heads of the nails resting on some solid metal support and by 
use of the hammer the nails are bent over across the grain of the wood. The 
other side and two legs are then assembled in the same way. 

To nail the other two sides of the box in place, one of the first two sides 
is placed vertically against the work bench, as shown in Fig. 3, with an edge 
of the leg resting on the top of the bench and two nails driven into the edge 
of the leg. It is then placed on the work bench or floor, as shown in Fig. 4, 
with the first two sides in a vertical position and one nail driven into each end. 

To nail on the three floor pieces the holder is placed flat on the bench or 
floor with the posts up and three 3d fine common nails used in each end of 
each piece. 

An old pail handle is most suitable for a handle. It is fastened at each 
end with two poultry netting staples which are placed as shown in Fig. 1. If 
a pail handle is not at hand, heavy Avire may be used for the wire part and a 
piece of an old broom handle with a small hole bored through it lengthwise for 
the wood part. When driving the staples in place the stand is placed so that 
the board into which the staples are being placed will rest on the corner of the 
work ])ench or other solid surface. 




36 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 37 



SAW HORSE 

Bill of Material 
Lumber: 

Pieces Dimensions Use 

2 ys'x6%"xS'-0" Sides 

4 ys\3%"x2r . Legs 

2 13/4"x5 9-16"x5 11-16" Braces 

2 ys"x4"xlli/4" ■ Aprons 

Hardware: 

24 fiat head wood screws 1%" Xo. 10 for aprons and ends. 
20 fiat liead wood screws 1%" No. 9 for legs. 

Directions fcr Construction 

Til e two aprons may be cut from one piece, as shown in Fig. 1. The legs 
may be cut from one long piece, as shown in Fig. 2. 

The slant or angles at the ends of the aprons, braces, legs and both edges 
of the sides are the same and are laid out by use of the T bevel set, as shown 
in Fig. 3, at 6" on the blade and 1 9-16" on the tongue of the steel square. 
The cuts A, B, and C are laid out by use of the T bevel set in this way. 

The slant or angles across the sides at both ends of the legs as at D are 
laid out by use of the T bevel set on the steel square as in Fig. 3 at 6" on the 
blade and 1 1-16" on the tongue. 

To make the aprons fit tight against the legs, bevel the outside edges of 
the legs with the T bevel set at 9" on the blade and 14" on the tongue of the 
steel square. 

The sides are fastened to the braces with three 1%" No. 10 flat head 
screws at each joint. Holes are bored through the sides and the holes counter- 
simk for the screws. 

The legs are fastened to the sides with five 1^2" ^0. 9 fiat head screws at 
each leg. 

The aprons are placed up tight against the sides and held with three 1%" 
No. 10 flat head screws. 




38 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 39 

POULTRY WATERING STAND 

1. What provision do you have for watering the poultry on your home 

farm? 

2. What advantage has a pail over a pan for this purpose? 

3. What is the objection to setting a pail part way in the ground if the 
poultry house has a ground floor? 

4. What advantage does a watering stand have over setting the pail on 
the floor? 

5. What size of pail have you available for this purpose and what is its 
diameter at top and bottom? 

6. What dimension in this plan is determined by the size of pail? 

7. What grade and kind of lumber would you use for the stand? 

8. Make out a bill of material for the stand as you would build it stat- 
ing the number of pieces, their size and where in the stand each is to be used. 

9. If you are not satisfied with the height of the stand as in the drawing 

what would you use and what members would you change the dimensions of? 

10. State the kind and size of nails to be used in assembling the stand 

and tell how many you would use at each joint. 

11. State the order in which you would assemble the parts. 

12. Suppose you desire to build a stand so that the top of the pail is 
nearer the top of the platform how would you accomplish it? 

13. If you do not have two 11" boards for the platform and need to use 
narrower boards what size of cleats would you use to nail up a platform and 
where would you place them? 

14. What advantage has a watering stand over an ordinary box with a 
hole in it for the pail? 

15. What advantage 'has a movable stand over one that is permanently 
fastened to the wall of the poultry house? 




40 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 



41 



CHICKEN BROODER COOP AND RUN 

Material Required 

liumber: 1 piece il"x9"xl0'-0" white pine, Oregon pine, cypress or redwood. 

1 piece il"x2%"xl0'-0" white pine, Oregon pine, cypress or redwood. 
. 1 piece ir^x2"x7'-6" white pine, Oregon pine, cypress or redwood. 

1 piece tI^'x11/^''x2'-0" white pine, Oregon pine, cypress or redwood. 

1 piece %"xl"x2'-0" white pine, Oregon pine, cypress or redwood. 
Hardware: i/4 lb. 4d common nails. 

1 lb. 6d common nails. 

21 lineal ft. 18", 1" mesh chicken wire. 

% lb. %" poultry netting staples. 

Stock Bill 



Pieces Finished Dimensions Use 



Pieces Finished Dimensions Use 



3 


-M"x9"x28%" 


Platform 


3 


ir'xl0"x25" 


Roof 


4 


l-r'x2y2'x27" 


Cleats for bot- 


3 


it"xl0"x24i/4" 


Roof 






tom and sides 


1 


il"xl0"x20" 


Back 


2 


ir'x2"xl9" 


Middle door 


2 


ir'x9"xl8" 


Back 






slats 


1 


Ii-"x2y2"x23" 


Cleat for back 


2 


ir'x2'xi3y2" 


Side door slats 


2 


ir'xiy2"xii%" 


Cleat for 


2 


il"x2"xl2" ■ 


Front piece 






door 






of slot for door 


4 


ir'x2"x3'-9" 


Run sides 


2 


%"xl"xll" 


Back piece of 


4 


f§"x2"x2^4%" 


Run ends 






slot for door 


4 


il"x2"xl8" 


Run posts 










Directions 



. 1. Reduce all pieces to 
finished dimensions and label 
each piece. Labels should be 
written neatly with letters 
about the size used in writing 
on paper. Careless writing 
does not look well on wood- 
work. 

2. Fasten bottom cleats to 
bottom by driving two 6d 
comiiion nails in each board 
at each end. The nails are 
longer than the thickness of 
the boards and should be 
driven at a slant so as not to 
go through. 

3. Fasten cleats to roof 
boards same as bottom and 
drive two nails into each 
board at the ridge. 

4. For laying out the slant 
Fig. 22. Chicken Brooder Coop and Run. on upper end of pieces for 

back and front the T bevel should be used and may be set at the same angle as 
the drawing. 

5. Fasten cleat to back pieces the same as bottom and roof; set back pieces 
in place and nail through edge of back roof board. 

6. Nail the two lower front pieces firmly in place by nailing through edge of 
front roof board and one nail in end of roof board cleat. 

7. Place cleats for door as shown in "Top view of door" and fasten with 6d nails. 

8. Fasten cleats to door by using two 4d common nails at each joint. Take a 
few shavings from the side of the side pieces so the door may slide freely. 

9. Cut the ends of the comer posts of the run as shown in the detail drawing 
and join the corners with three 6d common nails placed as shown in detail of corner. 
Assemble the sides and ends first. 

10. In fastening the wire begin at one corner and run the wire around the 
run, cutting the opening for the door as wide as the door and eight inches high. Do 
not cut the bottom strand of wire. Staples should be placed not more than 6 inches 
apart. 




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42 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR THE RURAL SCHOOLS 4S 

11. Run the wire lengthwise at the top and fasten with staples at the end 
and sides. 

12. Bore a % inch hole through the upper door cleat at the center. A 'peg 
placed in this hole may rest on the upper end piece of the run and hold the door open. 
A similar hole through a slat of the door and into the front edge of the front roof 
board furnishes a place for the peg to hold the door open when the run is not in use. 
A brooder coop should be built so that the roof may be removed and the platform 
thoroughly cleaned. 

IRONING BOARD 

Material Required 

Lrtimber: 1 piece white pine, poplar or basswood, li/^"xl2"x5'-0". 
1 piece white pine, poplar or basswood, it"x4"x3'-6". 

1 piece birch or oak il"xli/4"x8'-4". 

Hardware : 2 carriage bolts V4"^^%'' with 2 washers each. 
4 flat head bright wood screws 1^/4 ", No. 8. 
4 flat head bright wood screws % "> ^^' '^' 

2 steel butt hinges, riveted, with 1%" screws. 

Stock Bill 

Pieces Finished Dimensions Use 

1 li/8"xl2'x5'-0" Board 

2 ir'xli/4"x3^-2" Clamps 

1 ii"xl"xl2" Parting Strip 

1 y2"x2i/2'x9i4" Cross Bar 

1 irx4'x2'-7" Post 

1 il"x4"xlO" Post and Hinge 



Support 



Directions 



1. Eeduce all pieces to finished dimensions. 

2. To shape the board draw a center line lengthwise of stock and swing 
an arc with 5" radius on center line 5" from end. 

3. Draw lines across both edges 2' 3" from the same end as the arc. 

4. Eemove stock to line with saw, draw knife and plane. 

5. Locate points for bolts 4" from end and 2" from edge and bore a 11-16" 

hole ^" deep on the upper edge of board. 

6. Bore 14" holes through the board in center of 11-16" holes, and through 
the parting strips and clamps. 

7. Bolt these three members in place and plug the 11-16" holes. 

8. Fasten the post to the post and hinge support with four 11^" No. 8 
screws. 

9. Cut a small groove in the lower side of the board and also in the edge 
of the post and hinge support for the joint of the hinges and fasten the hinges. 

10. Place the board on the bench and the post standing up at right angle 
to the board and fasten the cross bar to the clamps so that it touches the post. 
The cross bar is better if 2%" wide and fastened with 2 screws at each end than 
if a piece only 1" wide is used as in the drawing. 

11. Bore the %" hole in the lower end of post for hanging the board. 




44 



MANUAL TRAINING FOE THE RURAL SCHOOLS 45 



WAGON JACK 

Material Required 

Lumber: 1 piece oak, birch, maple or other hardwood l"x6"x6'-6". 
Hardware : 6 machine bolts % "xSi^ " with washers. 
2 fiat head, bright wood screws 1^", Xo. 10. 

2 pieces of iron i^"xl"x4". 

3 iron rivets I4"xl%". 

Stock Bill 

Pieces Finished Dimensions Use 

i l"x3" x3'-0" Top 

1 l"x2i/2"x3'-0" Main Brace 

2 I"x2%"xl2" Front Standards 
2 I'xiy8"x22" Back Standards 
1 ' l"x3" x24" Lever 

1 34' x2" X 8" Foot 

1 - %"x4" X 4" Wheel 

Directions 

1 . Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions. 

2. Round one end of the top by swinging an arc on a centerline at one 
end .with a radius of one and one-half inches, and remove stock with saw 
and chisel. .-- 

3. Lay out axle notches by drawing lines across the upper edge of the 
top two and three-quarters inches apart, and another line on the side of the 
stock one inch from the top edge. Cut the notches with the rip and cross- 
cut saws. 

4. Round the ends of the front standards by swinging arcs on a center- 
line one and one-eighth inches from the end with a one and one-eighth inch 
radius. 

5. Find the center of the piece for the wheel by drawing lines diagonally 
across the stock, and swing the circle with the compass set at a 2 inch radius. 

6. Lay out the lower end of the main brace as shoMrn in the detail draw- 
ing to fit the foot, and cut the upper end at a bevel. 

7. Lay out and cut a one-quarter inch chamfer around the upper edge 
of the foot excepting where it^ fits into' the main brace. 

8. Swing a circle on a centerline drawn lengthwise of the lever one and 
one-half inches from the upper end with the compass set at one and -one-half 
inch radius; taper the lever to one and one-half inches at the lower end, and 
remove the stock to line. Lay out and cut a one-quarter inch chamfer at all 
four corners of the lever as shown in the drawing. 

■9. Fasten the foot to the niain brace with two one and one-half inch 
No. 10 flat head, bright wood screws. 

10. Bore holes with three-eighths inch bit for bolts at positions shown in 
the drawing and assemble parts with bolts. 

11. Bore one-quarter inch holes for rivets of iron plate at center of circle 
of lever, as shown in the drawing at upper end, and fasten plates by riveting 
in position. ^ 



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47 



THE ROEHL SERIES OF 
FARM SHOP TEXTS 

Agricultural Woodworking $1.00 net 

Farm Wood Work 1.25 net 

Harness Repairing 1.00 net 

Rope Work 80 net 

Farm Shop Record Book 50 net 

Farmers' Shop Book. (In Preparation) 






LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 




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